Around Sri Lanka in Eighty Vehicles

As my journeying around Sri Lanka has now come to an end (I go home in 4 days) I feel like I have to share something with you about transport. This is both to educate, advise and entertain so please take whichever one you want from this! 

Sri Lanka has a lot of public transport. Apparently most men who say they are "Trishaw drivers" are actually probably more accurately unemployed - though today I met one who proudly told us of his degree in Sinhalese sociology, so I guess people surprise you. 

Buses race to beat the one in front to the next stop so they can pick up more passengers. 

Trishaw drivers literally hail YOU down the street, rather than the other way around. (Today we made our usual chappy, who waits across the street on the chance that we might need a ride, angry by getting in to the tuk tuk that pulled up next to us. We knew he was angry because of the excessive beeping that followed.) 

Here's a list of the transport methods we have enjoyed and endured during our time in Sri Lanka - from the sublime to the ridiculous. 

Buses 

Expect to pay: Barely anything (e.g. 290 Sri Lankan rupees [SLR] for Kandy to Colombo; 120 SLR for Kalutara to Colombo; 15 SLR from Kandy to the Botanical Gardens) 

The Pros: Cheap - and they run from pretty much anywhere. 

Cons: Sometimes they don't stop, they just slow down so you have to jump on or off; There don't seem to be designated bus stops so the routes are hard to work out - the locals seem to know; Bumpy, accident prone (we saw a collision) and wobbly if you don't get a seat; If you do get a seat, you end up sitting in a strangers lap as they aren't very wide. 

Train

Expect to pay: Very low prices (e.g. 500 SLR for first class observation seats from Colombo to Kandy) 

The Pros: Cheap and fairly comfortable if you reserve a seat. The train from Colombo to Kandy was one of the highlights of our trip - it was an amazingly beautiful way to see the country. We managed to get the seats right at the back of the train travelling backwards so we got these kind of views all the way. 

Cons: Like most forms of public transport in Sri Lanka, I can imagine that if you get motion sickness this would be fairly unpleasant. The track is a little unsteady at times. Worryingly, the train would slow to allow men to move off the tracks before it went past. We then saw the men returning to work repairing the track as we moved on. It is a little disconcerting to see how many people walk all over the tracks - we saw families hiking, men carrying heavy loads and even animals. Another difficulty was that we couldn't work out how to book a train coming back from Kandy from Colombo station. That was pretty weird and actually meant that we got 'stranded' in Kandy. 

Trishaw/Tuk tuk (with and without meters)

Expect to pay: Meters start at 50 rupees and go up by around 30 rupees per km. This works out incredibly cheap in comparison to what non-meters ask of tourists - e.g. Nugegoda to Kalutara cost 1300 SLR by meter taxi and 2200 SLR when negotiated with non-meters (they wanted to charge 3000 SLR). 

The Pros: They are everywhere so you can always find one, especially in Colombo. They comfortably fit two people and luggage - I also fit into the backseat of one with a well-built man, his petite wife and their baby. The advantage with meter taxis is that they are cheaper!

Cons: Want to arrive at a place looking your best - every hair in place and a nice clean, shiny face? Tuk tuks might not be your thing. After an  'epic' 4 hour tuk tuk ride from Kandy to Colombo (not recommended- we should have gone for the slightly more expensive car) Josie and I spent the first 30 minutes after getting back to the apartment marvelling at the dirt that came off our faces, arms, legs etc. The fumes, in Colombo particularly, are enough to make you feel nauseous. They are also pretty scary as they can wiggle into the tiniest spaces (or they think they can) and overtake in the face on oncoming traffic. If you are easily stressed, close your eyes. 

Cab or taxi

Expect to pay: If you're travelling by cab (car) rather than trishaw, you are probably going to end up paying a lot more for the privilege. Nugegoda to Kalutara cost 3400 SLR. 

The Pros: Security, comfort, proper rain shelter and air conditioning. Definitely a more comfortable way to travel. Not so many moments when you feel like your whole life has just flashed before your eyes. 

Cons: Need to be booked in advance (though that's easy enough); more expensive. 

Car and driver

Expect to pay: Apparently if you hire a car and driver for your trip it usually works out as about the same price as just hiring the car; we just used cars and drivers for excursions; we were quoted two days with a car and driver for 26000 SLR to take us to Dambulla, Polonnaruwa, Sigiriya and to a safari (that JUST paid for the driver, car and petrol-- usually packages quote you for these and the accommodation and admission fees as well as providing you with site-guides). 

The Pros: Comfortable travel (always ask for air con!) with a usually very pleasant chap. All the advantages of a cab/taxi. 

Cons: If you get stuck with a rubbish/unpleasant/dangerous driver this would be awful. Book in advance. Relatively expensive. 

There are some other forms of transport I wish I had tried including elephant rides, horse-riding and the air taxi. Maybe in the future I'll cross some of these off my list of things to do in Sri Lanka!